Manufacture of bracelets



Nov. 7, 1933. E. L. WEED 1,933,576

MANUFACTURE OF BRACELETS Filed April 24, 1953 I7 40 INVENTOR Edwarcili.TVeed',

B: ATTORNEY Patented Nov. 7, 1933 MANUFACTURE OF BRACELETS Edward L.Weed, Prov ide'nce, R. 1., assignor to J. J. White Manfg. Company,Providence, It. I.,

a company of Rhode Application April 24, 1933.

12 Claims.

The invention relates to the manufacture of jewelry, and aims to presenta method particularly applicable to the manufacture of one-piecefiligree bracelets. An important purpose is also to present an improvedproduct produced by this method.

It is an important attainment of the invention that extremely delicatefiligree work may be quickly assembled in a durable bracelet ofexcellent workmanship at an extremely low cost. It is also an importantobject to enable the formation of a one-piece bracelet and fastening ina novel way.

In the jewelry trade a stockfiligree strip known as pierced stock isfamiliar, one well known form is made in short strips, two of which endto end may be utilized as a continuous ornamental feature of a braceletof any kind. Such strips are used in two-piece bracelets, and also inonepiece spring bracelets. Customarily this pierced metal is soldered toa support or body part, carring the necessary hinges and catches, and insome cases a band is formed of the pierced stock with overlapping ends,adapted to spring into closed bracelet form with ends slightlyoverlapped, and maintained in closed form by its inherent resiliency, bywhich it opposes movement from closed position with the ends overlapped.

It is an important purpose of my invention to enable the utilization ofthis stock strip in a novel way, minimizing labor operations, andenabling the production of a bracelet of substantial appearanceutilizing the thin pierced metal strip as its embellishment. It is alsoan aim to form a novel means for closing such a bracelet withoutrequiring assembly of separate fastenings or parts such as tongues andsockets, spring catches, latches or the like.

Additional objects, advantages and features of invention reside in themethods of manipulation and sequence of steps as hereinafter recited,and in the nature of the product as more particularly set forthhereinafter and shown in the accompany drawing, wherein, p

Figure 1 is an actual-size plan view of a fragment of body channel stockfor use as material for producing a bracelet in the practice of myinvention.

Figure 2 is a cross section thereof, greatly enlarged.

Figure 3 is an actual size elevation of a section of pierced metalstock.

Figure 4 is a View similar to Figure 1, showing the channel stockblanked.

Island Serial No. 667,727

Figure 5 is a similar fragmentary view showing initial engagement of thepierced stock in the channel piece.

Figure 6 is a view of the completed bracelet body, fiat.

Figure 7 is a cross section on the line 7'7 of Figure 6, greatlyenlarged.

Figure 8 is a view of the completed bracelet showing the catch.

Figure 9 is a fragmentary section at the catch.

Figure 10 is an inner side view of the ornamental hinged catch piece.

V Figure 11 is a plan view of a modification ofthe body stock andpierced metal assembled.

Figure 12 is a back view of the modification. 1

Figure 13 is a cross section thereof.

Figure 14 is a similar view of another modification.

' In forming a bracelet by my method, I first produce a stock channelform 10 shown in Figures l and 2,. which operation is preferably carriedout by machine into which simple, fiat ductile metal ribbon stock isfed, the edges of which are thereby turned in, as at 11. This is nextcut to the form shown in Figure 4 although it would preferably beblanked in suitable dies whereby a frame 12 is formed having two gallerybars 13 at the sides connected by intermediate fiat cross bars 14 andtwo end cross bars 15, at the back side. The bars 18 are eachsubstantially U- shaped in cross section, having flanges 16 and 17 atbottom and top, respectively, of the channel stock, but the back flange16 is somewhat broader than the top one 17, in order to gain somestrength in the piece Without creating a too heavy appearance in thechannel body, as will appear, and also to afford a broad, smoothwrist-engaging surface on the finished piece.

In the blanking, three transversely spaced hinge ears 18 are formedprojecting longitudinally at one end of the body, a somewhat broadercentral longitudinal tongue 19 with rounded end being formed at theother end, and two finishing cars 20' at respective sides of thistongue, on the edge of the blank. The ears and tongue spring from theouter sides of the bars 15. These ears 2% serve as channel closers orretainers for the inserted pierced work, as will appear. The ears 18also serve a similar purpose at the opposite end of the piece. Two ofthe cars 18 have their outer lateral sides flush with the externalsurface of the respective bars 18, and all are turned in cylindricallyon the same side of the channel with the flange 17 so as to form hingeknuckles lying snugly against the ends of these flanges and flush withthe top faces thereof.

I also form separately by familiar practice the pierced metal or otherornamental insert strip 21, which may be made of any desired length, butcommonly, in order to save expense in making dies and forms, it is madein half lengths, so that two will equal the maximum circumferentialmeasurement of an ordinary bracelet body. It is of a thickness slightlyless than the space between the flanges 16 and 17, and of a width toslide easily into the channel under the flanges 17 by manual insertion.In the body blank as shown there are three intermediate cross bars 14equally spaced from each other and similarly spaced from the end crossbars 15. Before insertion, the two insert strips are trimmed equally toaggregate the length of the piece, so that their meeting ends will lieover the central cross bar 14, and one is notched at 22, on the end toafford a clearance under the tongue 19. The inserts are now inserted,and the cars 20 turned upward and inward over the insert end. These earsare each formed with a short part 23 next the respective bars 13 andlonger parts 24 at their inner sides, the short parts when turned uplying flush with the tops of the flanges 1'7 and the longer parts beingturned in over the end of the insert so as to form short end flanges 25with the appearance of a mitered continuation of the flanges 17. Theears 26 are spaced slightly from the tongue 19, and the latter is turnedupward and recurved inward over the outer face of the insert to form ahook 26, the recurved part projecting slightly from the end of thepiece. The bill 27 of the hook is slightly curved upward.

The assembly now comprises the main piece or body of the bracelet. It isin a form to be conveniently plated if not of solid precious metal, andsuch plating is carried out in accordance with familiar practices,serving to make the junction of the two inserts continuous inappearance. The piece may be buffed by automatic machines on anautomatic feeding work holder while in the fiat form as assembled,contributing further to economy in manufacture. After bufiing, the pieceis bent to the desired shape and size to receive the wrist of a wearer,forming a G-spring with a substantial opening between its ends. Forclosing the bracelet and connecting the ends of the piece formed asabove described, an ornament fastener 30 is provided which may be one ofa multiplicity of different designs, all however, having hinge knuckles31 at one side to be set between the knuckles formed of the cars 13 andsecured by a hinge pin 32 engaged through all. The ornament includes aframe piece 37 having the knuckles 31 thereon, and having also adjacentthe opposite side of the frame from the knuckles a bar 33 looped orotherwise formed properly to pass under the hook 26 when the bracelet iscompressed to less than normal size and allowed to spring open again. Asthe fastenor 30 does not require a very great extent of movement, theknuckles thereon may be well under the ornament, but preferably slightlyoffset below the fastener. The bar '53 is also preferably locatedunderneath the ornament so as to not only be concealed, but so as tohold the ornament over and conceal a substantial part of the hook 26.

The sizeof the bracelet may be governed by the width of the ornament, orby forming the blanks of the body in various lengths. The 0rnament 30preferably is of a form to completely cover both ends of the main piece.

The ends of the inserts may be soldered together if desired to add tothe strength of the article and improve its spring action, although thelocation of the central cross bar 14 is thought to obviate need forthis.

In another method a body strip of plain flat stock 40 is formed with thenecessary hinge cars '41 at one end, while at the other there are formedthe tongue 42 and edging ears 43; and a roll edge 44 is formed along theentire length at each side, the space between these roll edges being thesame as the width of the pierced stock. The ears 43 are plain and areturned in as a transverse continuation of the roll edge. The piercedstock is then trimmed at the ends to fit snugly upon the outer face ofthe stock 40 between the rolls 44 and end knuckles and rolls 43, beingsoldered in place after the knuckles are formed. The piece is thenformed to the necessary C-spring shape and the fastening ornament 30attached as before.

The openings in the base stock may be varied for ornamental and othereffects, and may be omitted.

A plain fiat base stock strip 45 may be used without the roll edge atthe sides, but having the hinge ears and tongue only, at the ends, andthe pierced stock soldered to the outer face thereof, the forming andassembly otherwise being as before described (see Fig. 14).

The gallery edged stock may be used to form an ordinary one-piece springbracelet, without fastening, if desired.

I claim:-

1. In a method of forming a bracelet or the like, the steps consistingin forming a body stock strip having upstanding edges, cutting from thisindividual bracelet blanks having integral finishing parts at the endsas longitudinal projections alined with the body stock, fitting anornamental plate between the said edges and ends, shaping the ends asconnector elements and retainers, and bending the assembly to the formdesired.

2. The method of claim 1 including the shaping of the longitudinalprojections as knuckles on one end of the blank and as an integralconnecting element on the other end of the blank, and hinging to theknuckles a member having a coacting connecting element complementary tothat on the blank.

3. In a method of forming a bracelet or the like, the steps consistingin forming a continuous sheet metal stock strip having gallery edges,forming stock ornament strip of a width to fit snugly and slidablybetween and in the gallery edges, cutting from the stock a body piecehaving integral longitudinally projecting finishing parts at the endslying in the plane of the body of the stock below the gallery edges,inserting the ornament strip slidably fromfthe end in the gallery edgesof the body piece to form an ornamental work thereover, bending thelongitudinally projecting parts at the end outwardly and inwardly asretaining members and bending the assembly to the desired form.

4. In a method of forming a bracelet or the like the steps consisting informing a stock strip having gallery edges, forming stock ornament stripof a width to fit snugly between and in the gallery edges, blanking thebody stock to form a body piece having integral hinge ears at one end,and an integral connecting and retainer element at the other end,forming the ears into knuckles,

inserting ornament stock slidably in the gallery 150 edges of the bodyto form an ornamental work over the body; bending the connecting andretainer element, shaping the assembly and hinging a connector to theknuckles having a connecting element complementary to that of the bodyconnecting element.

5. In a method of forming a bracelet or the like, the steps consistingin forming a stock strip having gallery edges, forming stock ornamentstrip of a width to fit snugly between and in the gallery edges,blanking the body stock to form a body piece having integral hinge earsat one end, and an integral connecting element at the other end, formingthe ears into knuckles, inserting the ornament strip slidably in thegallery edges of the body to form an ornamental work over the body;shaping the connecting element, into a hook having a bill at the outerside of the piece turned rearwardly from the end, bending the assemblyto form a C-spring bracelet body with the ends separated a materialdistance normally, and hinging a connector to the knuckles having atransverse bar positioned to engage under the hook when the ends of thepiece are forced toward each other a distance in opposition to theinherent resilience of the assembly.

6. The method of forming a jewelry article of the character describedcomprising forming a thin pierced metal open work stock strip, forming achannel stock consisting of a continuous flat body plate having integralinturned continuous flat-faced gallery edges, blanking this stock toform opposed gallery bars having narrow flatfaced top and bottom flangesand cross bars connecting the bottom flanges at exceedingly longintervals, inserting the pierced stock longitudinally in the gallerybars, and shaping the assembly.

'7. The method of forming a jewelry article of the character describedcomprising forming a thin pierced metal open work stock strip, forming achannel stock consisting of a continuous body plate having integralinturned continuous gallery edges, blanking this stock to form opposedgallery bars having narrow top and bottom flanges and cross barsconnecting the bottom flange at long intervals, said blanking includingalso the formation of end cross bars connecting the gallery bars andhaving integral longitudinal ears, inserting the pierced stocklongitudinally into the gallery bars, forming the ears in retainingrelation to the pierced stock, and shaping the assembly as a whole.

8. A bracelet article consisting of a body strip of thin metal open-workand having along the edges thereof gallery bars of continuous sheetmetal U-shaped in cross section, each having continuous narrow fiatparallel bottom and top flanges, the extreme edge portions only of saidstrip being engaged in close flat fitting contact with and between thesaid flanges of the gallery bars, the assembly being bent to form a C-spring bracelet, whereby an extremely thin openwork bracelet withunobstructed openings throughout its major area is formed but havingedges of substantial thickness and strength and adapted to retain itssymmetricalform incident to normal use.

'9. The structure of claim 8 in which connecting cross bars are formedintegrally with the bottom flanges of opposed gallery bars, whereby thebars are held against separation from the body strip.

10. The structure of claim 8 in which connecting cross bars are formedintegrally with the bottom flanges of opposed gallery bars, twoconnecting bars being formed at the ends of the gall ry bars and havingprojections extended longitudinally with respect to the gallery bars,and formed in retaining relation to the body strip.

11. In the manufacture of bracelets, forming a thin metal openwork stockstrip, forming continuous gallery bars of sheet metal U-shaped in crosssection, each having flat continuous bottom and top flanges spaced toreceive snugly. therebetween the said openwork stock in a close lit withsaid flanges flat'against the bottom and top faces of the strip,applying said bars to the longitudinal edges of the openwork stock stripso that said flanges respectively lie parallel to and flat against thebottom and top faces of the strip and projecting a short distance onlyover the extreme longitudinal edge portions of the openwork stock strip,and bending the assembly to form a C-spring bracelet.

12. In the manufacture of C-spring type bracelets, forming a thin weakpierced metal stock strip, forming from continuous sheet metal stockgallery bars each comprising a flat continuous bottom flange and anintegral flat-faced continuous top flange bent into parallel relation tothe bottom flange spaced therefrom to receive snugly between the flangesthe extreme lateral edge portions only of the pierced metal stock strip,applying the gallery bars to the longitudinal edges of the pierced metalstock strip so that the said flanges lie parallel to and flat againstthe bottom and top faces respectively of the pierced metal stock strip,and bending the assembly to form a C-spring bracelet.

EDWARD L. WEED.

